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control after vineyard vines

Thanks to one and all for your comments on this blog and on facebook . I stress a little history with this control and if it does not change the outcome, it is comforting to see that there are people like me who believe that the presence of grass in vineyards is not necessarily a crime of lese-wine "!

Yesterday, I learned that another bio of Beaujolais had been monitoring its vines by CIBAS, followed by a procedure decommissioning. It's starting to do a lot ... I'm waiting for my still new. But whatever the outcome of control, I decided to seek an appointment with the CIBAS to know the reasons which motivated. I admit that the definition of rules and the enforcement of these rules give meaning to the concept of designation. But in hindsight, I think we could prevent growers from inspectors' visit, if only the day before or the same day. So that the grower can be present and interact with the inspector on his farming practices.

Because I read the inspection plan defined by the ODG relied upon by the controller, number of checkpoints are unfortunately open to interpretation. And when the objectivity of the review can not be guaranteed, we need to oppose the subjectivity of the Comptroller of the winemaker, unless you want absolutely the trap!

If I return to the thorny issue of the "file", namely the cultural condition of the vines (leaves and maintenance of soil), the highly subjective interpretation is unmistakable. The inspection plan gives no indication on the control method. It is just writing on the form of the inspection plan, regarding the method to be used by the inspector to ensure the adequacy of the state of the vine to the rules of the appellation, the word "control field", without further explanation that could help in his work ...

One may well suspect in this case, by an inspector to the other, the appreciation of the cultural condition may differ. Some, still imbued with culture "greenery", to use Marc Dalbavie expression of Domaine de la Blanche Lane, consider the presence of "Weeds" as an "anomaly" crop. Others, however, more concerned about the "matter Green, "regards this as an enhancement factor of biodiversity!

For if herbs can in some cases, besides the aspect of" unattractive "which some may find constitute a constraint on the vine, elsewhere they may be her beneficiaries.

one hand, they can cause water stress for the vines, to compete too hard on the feet of vines to cause their decline , cause nitrogen deficiency, factor sluggish fermentations, install a residual moisture, increasing factor risk of frost, or sag, or even help create an ecosystem conducive to the installation pest of the vine.

the other, conversely, they are a factor in improving conditions for the appearance of predators of these pests, the auxiliaries of the vine, they are a factor of soil improvement by their ability to " pollution "as datura stramonium example that purifies the soil loaded with pesticides, datura, which invaded last year one of my plots and has completely disappeared today! These weeds are also involved in improving the lives of soils, ryegrass by the ability their root system to create a pseudo humic clay complex, thistles and creeping roots which contribute to the swivel decompaction soil, legumes for their ability to fix nitrogen .... They can also absorb excess water from waterlogged areas and contribute to improved oxygenation of the root system of vines and thus become partners in improving health of the plant. They limit the erosion. They are an effective means of control of prophylaxis against botrytis. I might add, that leaving the weeds take hold, it prevents the emergence of other herbs germinating later, the competition on the vine could be more damaging than those exercised by the latter. And the list is not exhaustive. We can also say that competing with the vines, grass diminishes the force and makes it less susceptible to fungal diseases such as mildew. Also, it forces him to look deep water which deprives the grass, making it ultimately more years of resistance the water deficit. I spoke recently with a winemaker Guy Blanchard's bio Maconnais. He told me that this year the most beautiful vineyards in him are those grass. But he started grassing nine years ago ...

And this weed probably many other "virtues" (same etymology as "green"? :-) I do not know.

I had a few months ago an exchange by mail with a botanist, an expert in plant messicoles, these "weeds" growing in cereal crops. Due to its specialty, I ventured to ask his opinion on what was best done in the maintenance of soil from one of my plots where a small ryegrass was installed in early spring . I wondered about the relevance of a plow which would have destroyed so that it seemed more beneficial than harmful to my vineyard.

I reproduce here excerpts from my email query and the answer he had been kind to me:

My question:
"... I am now in a critical period, the passage of the flower of the vine, and I wonder if I should mow my ryegrass which can create areas of high humidity inflorescences and disrupt the drop caps. But in doing so, I fear disrupt the reseeding of this little ryegrass that seems particularly suited to what I want to do (limited competition from other weeds and does not seem too "pull" on the ground, see the current strength of my vines that is close to the "normal" surrounding vineyards ... "His answer

:
" ... This ryegrass is the result of the stock Soil seed because you did not sow, so your response will not limit or slightly next year its recurrence. By cons for years if you perform the same manipulation (mowing at the time) you will introduce a practical selection that will determine the presence of other species and remove it. Similarly the absence of tillage will bring out biennial rooting deeper and greater biomass, large in scale so more problematic for the health aspects of the vine (residual moisture, competition).
The application of a mosaic of practices (mowing, tillage, seeding) may allow a relative heterogeneity beneficial: that is to say a very unstable system with "opportunities"
very variable (dormancy, climate) combined with voluntary actions decided ... "

I leave you to ponder his answer. It shows in any case it is difficult for an inspector of the INAO to ensure the relevance of cultivation of wine! be added there is absolutely no evidence that the herb can be harmful in the end, quality wine, and this is not a technicality! We can even legitimately ask the opposite question, though a friend told me that organic sow plants could transmit taste to the wine ... So I took special care to remove this type of weed. You never know!


I leave you, I still have a number to build to tear into my closed!

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Control

Thursday, my vines have been controlled by the CIBAS. The CIBAS is an independent, accredited by INAO and mandated by the ODG Beaujolais to monitor the adequacy of the practices of wine production rules for AOC.

The ODG is the O ody of efence D and G ement of the AOC. Composed of industry professionals, they were created after the reform INAO in 2007. INAO wanted through the creation of these structures back to the growers themselves the responsibility of monitoring compliance with the rules of the designation. A review by his peers, a "self-control of the profession" so to speak. If this is ODG that our region, in consultation with the INAO have finally decided to transfer the mission control CIBAS, an organization that existed prior to the reform and which was already relying INAO to perform these checks ...

In Beaujolais, two ODG were created. For wines claiming designations Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Village, a second grouping the ten Crus. Each ODG has established an inspection plan based on which the CIBAS to perform these checks. The inspection of the vines shall include compliance with the rules on the size of the appellation, respect Authorized returns per hectare, planting density and last but not least, floor care ...

I had not been informed of the visit of CIBAS. "Unannounced visit", the "law" authorizes. The principle is on the bottom pretty good. It lays down rules that define the scope of the designation. We must ensure that these rules are respected by those who claim it.

I was moving the trimmer in the parcel in front of the property when I saw someone in my camera. Sometimes I see people walking in my vines but in the closed I still found it strange. I am therefore inclined to meet this "walker". He told me he was working on CIBAS and was responsible for monitoring the status of my vines. The ending is so far the vineyard where I still have the most work of weeding. That the parcel closest to home, stashed behind these walls. That's why I kept it to the end of my work of weeding, I can easily go there in my spare time.

rotofil After a week, my other plots to date are quite presentable (that's what I think in any case!) and I'll finally be able to take care of the camera. Unfortunately, during the visit, there were still a lot to build the ranks. Nothing to do with the vegetation of spring but still sufficient enough to generate a sense of "outrage" among the most zealous conventional growers ...

The guy was young winemaker in a nearby town. I informed him that I was in bio (he did not know), that without herbicides was sometimes difficult to fight against the grass ... The CIBAS has the power to downgrade your vineyards if the judge does not conform to the specifications of the designation. The wines produced are then be marketed as table wine. I wanted this info of some organic vintners of Beaujolais, the plots were declassified because it was felt that too many weeds grew there. I tried to measure the capacity of tolerance of my controller on the subject. I had a tee-shirt soaked with sweat by rotofil few hours under a blazing sun. I hope he sympathizes ....

He told me that the grass, he looked, but no more than that, what interested him was to check the disease, yield, size. That slogan was CIBAS to be more "tolerant" compared to grass. Half reassured by the good news, however, I invited him to come take a walk in the other vines adjacent to the property so he can judge the effectiveness of my work as "Junk". He replied that he had just two control plots in the area. I closed and a small plot at the end of the street. It turns out that this parcel is also my ...

I asked a colleague how the bio CIBAS proceeded monitoring of vines. This organization is not of course the ability to control all from Beaujolais. So on what basis objective was based there to choose the vines to control? "On Recommendation" he replied laconically ... Unless the story of my adventures in the vineyards néovigneron on this blog is concerned at this point the people of CIBAS they decide to come take a look closer!

The same evening I found myself with a few bios of Beaujolais. One of them told us he had received following an unannounced inspection of a notification CIBAS decommissioning of one of these parcels for poor maintenance of the ground! "Tolerance" of the subject had CIBAS are limits ... Admittedly, this notification decommissioning was not final. The winemaker may perform the maintenance of soil and expected to seek re CIBAS control before harvest in order to find and the right to be called if the judge CIBAS the parcel again meets its criteria for eligibility. But the fees generated by this second inspection are the responsibility of the grower and the member refuses to have to bear any cost whatsoever to the extent that it finds the status of its vines is not in breach of designation.

Anyway, I do not understand, that in 2010 we are still denied the right to to a wine appellation on the grounds that there is grass in these vineyards. That today most respects its soil? Who really the "Services"? Whoever rejects the use of herbicides and let life resume movement in these soils, with the risk of being overwhelmed by lush vegetation, or one who created the desert around these vines using products that are now know they are polluting our most precious resource, water aquifers? If things change, that many conventional growers are aware of the dangers of herbicides and "reason" the use or recover the land to work, it among them is unconditional chemicals, the soil of vineyards at the old Harvest have a lunar landscape. It is those where the CIBAS should sanction. Those soils and bloodless when I wonder, whenever I see them, how vines can still grow, not those whose land "mess" does not reflect anything other than the return of life in soils. And I would add, not by provocation but to be exhaustive, it is the same in wine-making practices. Who can best take advantage of this concept of terroir, this base on which are based AOC? Those who practice sustainable viticulture development-friendly indigenous yeasts from grapes needed for the processing of wine, which he who uses pesticides that we know now the limiting effect on the yeast populations, requiring the use of exogenous yeast market standardizing the taste of wine?

INAO knows that. But rather than go back to basics, she chose to get rid of hot potato with the professionals of the wine industry by requiring the establishment of ODG. And with less than 4% surface organic or in conversion at the national level, we'll have more time for the profession has changed its criteria for compliance with rules designations. Rules whose guidelines had yet been enacted in the 30s at a time when chemistry had not yet appeared in the vineyards and was little used in the winery.

Growers who have dared to think outside the box first have been obliged to produce table wines. These wines will today meet a growing success with fans and it's only fair. So much so that if today you do not produce table wines, you are almost regarded by some as a has-been ... I find this unfortunate. I marvel at the subtle but noticeable differences between my Beaujolais-Village and my Fleurie 2009. Vineyards located within a mile as the crow flies, conducted in the same way, vinified in yeast and the same procedure. But in the end two different wines and especially typed according to their names, that I could judge for tasting wines of the vintage of a lot of bios of Beaujolais. That is the miracle of names defined by the old. That is what the growers and their officials must defend today, so that consumers find in the typical wines of origin in the diversity of our names. I hope

in any case that this control CIBAS is harmless. We shall see ....

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The Thorn Birds for food

The hen is a wolf to man.

Look what they did to my grapes (sensitive souls, immediately leave this blog).

They had my full confidence. I let them wander as they please in private. And this is how they thank me, eating the logs of my ripest clusters.

I do not recall having seen a sight more terrifying except that of my mother coming up to me child, holding in his hand a tablespoon of cod liver oil.

Go hens, in the dungeon! Released after the harvest!

There are others who love the grape. These are starlings.

You should see them during migration per thousand whirling above the vineyards and the signal of the head (the one with the feathers barred with yellow), descend on the vines to revel in their clusters. In 2008 and 2009 swarms of thousands of people flying in the sky of Fleurie. Was Fortunately, after the harvest. The starlings were able to feast as only forgotten by grapes and verjuice grape, the grapes from the secondary entrecœurs.

But this year, the harvest will be later ...

So you, starling, if you read me a tip: Do not let me especially not to fly over my vines before harvest, if I look at the fate in store for you.

A word to salvation.

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The squeegee, a species to protect

In the series' traditional tools of organic vineyard today ", today, the squeegee.

Do not be fooled by appearances. Although he appears meek shovel to bake the pizzas, the blade is actually a formidable killing machine.

His hunting ground? Sandy soils of the vineyards. His prey? Weeds that grow there.

genetic mutation genetic mutation, the squeegee has changed over time to eventually become THE TERROR OF WEEDS.

The long handle gives the winemaker who seizes the distance needed to perfect vision of the ground, even under the canopy of vines, his blade sharp like a razor, cut the root system of weeds with the same ease as the wire sliced bread butter.

You have to see this couple as demonic as the winemaker and his knife, at the first light of day sink into the sands of Beaujolais, excited by the smell of grass juice as the shark by smell of blood, tracking each amaranth, each fleabane, each buckwheat, even under the feet of vines where the herbs thought to have found a shelter that would protect them from their main predators in the brush and plows intercep.

Hey! You! Yes You! You, the lone traveler, thy wanderings led on this blog and who will lead you one day, who knows, on the slopes of the Beaujolais wines, you will see it then perhaps this vineyard, in the bend of a road, excavating the soil of its vineyards, penetrating with the regularity of a metronome the sharp blade of his machine. I stop, it excites me. You can also go through his vault to buy a few bottles. It will open your doors to his cellar as here open your doors of his heart.

In this connection, let me tell you, traveling solo, how happy I am to see you walk slopes of this blog. Your reading flatter myself and prove that it is not necessary to put pictures of naked women on a blog that is visited. That is your honor to participate with me in this fight that I deliver against pornography.

Otherwise, I look for some people to complete my crew of pickers. I'll put a photo of our last day of stripping that shows you that if it works hard to Bachelard, it is always in a spirit of conviviality and sharing.

So if you're interested to participate in the upcoming harvest or one of your relatives, do not hesitate to let me know by email . (No kidding)

And remember the wise words: "Only the body can go to jail. The mind can not be a prisoner, can not catch the wind."

Together, let us continue the fight!

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The Wages of Fear

A wine worth nothing but nothing beats a wine, "says Andre Malraux. (This was before his rehab after he has slightly modified the text of his famous formula). He was right

Malraux. It's true we will find it in wine, and all prices and more. I remember a prospectus Atac (supermarket, not the anti-globalization) that landed in my mailbox last year, shortly after the wine fair for latecomers idle, which were presented ten "wine grower" in less than a dollar fifty.

The prospectus was illustrated by a beautiful picture of a grandpa in the middle of the vineyard vines, facies carved by years of toil in the sun, with his background in 4L parked in a way, kind Aime Guibert in Modovino, but I do not think it was him. It happened almost hear the deafening sound of insects and small birds, sometimes I wonder why they make such a fuss.

All this just to show the consumer that he could go there with your eyes closed, as was true of local wines, made by real pecnots. (On reflection, it was not Aimé Guibert.)

It was full with my cogitation marketing director (my wife) on the circuit distribution we wanted to focus on the prices at which we wanted to offer our wines, under our cost price, average prices recorded on our different names, the intrinsic quality of our product and market position desired (very professional approach what).

And Ben is not the sort of prospectus that allows you to plan your future with serenity.

I want to make wines of terroir, not fund local wines. But there's limits anyway. If you end up having to ride 4L when they make wine. In berlingo, OK, but 4L, do not exaggerate. In

Anyway, me, with the euro, I can barely pay the dry materials (bottle, cap, label, capsule) and the cost of bottling. It's true, when you get in front of your stations with your supplier 4L rotten, for sure to much misery, it will make you a price that would allow you to fall to 70, 80 cents per bottle without wine.

That means that in the end when you go do your shopping at Atac, do you buy for 70 cents per bottle of wine taxes, distribution margin understood, and even if I consider that the delivery was made freely by the winemaker with his 4L. And

well, at this price point, I wonder how it is Aimé Guibert supermarkets to change the tires of his car when they are worn. At least make the 300 hectoliters per hectare, I do not see how that's possible. If I argue from our returns, even the rubber wiper blades I can not change it. So if you're not only forced to ride in 4L, but in addition you must pass the head through the window to see the road on rainy days, you think that there are limits. It's true I'll look what I head down the driver window and my dog with his head down on the passenger side (he loves it). To be winemakers, we are nonetheless men and we are not obliged to nab an ear infection every time it rains. It's true what. Shit at the end what.

Fortunately, sometimes it happens to fall on news of a little less depressing. A few months ago, Laurent Bazin on his blog wine my friends engaged in a small survey of its readers by asking them what was in their opinion the price of a good wine. Strange question when you think, but after all, the answer is not without interest to the winemaker means, even if it does not count the number of Bazin's friends. The

majority of respondents said between ten and fifteen euros. There, I said OK. At that price, I buy even faux leather covers for the car. A sponge and clean it. Super handy when your dog has plenty of land sprawled on the seat.

In addition, a winemaker friend told me he had recently read a survey on a broad range of people on the price at which consumers have put enough thought into their purchase for a quality wine : 8.5 euros.

I like the aphorism of Oscar Wilde, who knew a radius (not supermarket) about human nature. "Never buy something you do not want merely because it is expensive."

It's so difficult for some to follow this advice that this should be incorporated in the definition of its sale price. It's not that we want to abuse the weak nature of some, indeed often inversely proportional to the thickness of their wallet, but it's true that below a certain price, as there suspicion towards the quality of your wine.

Given all this, and especially the random nature of each vintage, this is not easy to define a price that makes your wine "credible" in the eyes of an amateur, but still a decent value for money, and that you allow at the same time to buy the best dry food for your dog.

Because after the wine lover, the dog is the best friend of the winemaker, and it is well worth it buys the top of the top of the kibble.

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God probably exists, but I have not yet met

Nature abhors a vacuum. Weeding of vines made a month ago by hand or by plowing, has left the field open (as is the case to say) to summer plants. The floor was bare handed promoted dormancy of seeds. And then now mingle with some erect slipped through the cracks of our first cleaning, amaranth, black nightshade and more rarely, goosefoot.

When I see the energy that we had to make to overcome the first generation of grass (and again, I'm not quite out!) I sometimes feel like giving up. Finally, you tell me when you have your arms down, it's easier to pull weeds, but still.

I ask you, in these first days of August, when France is sunbathe on the beaches, why not I also entitled to a little vacation? True, anything. Be organic and shut up, that's it eh? Well no.

Well, the problem is knowing what impact it can have on my vines.

Besides the aesthetic aspect of the thing. This may sound silly, but when your neighbors eyes offer the walker, thanks to the trimmers and weed killers, the sight of vineyards chalk, you can not stop you from feeling guilty vines have less "clean". Probably a reminiscence of my past computer. A computer is zero or one and it has created in me a certain tendency to psychorigidité. I like things square, although I think eventually I move fast enough on that. My neighbors also, I suppose.

But that is not of course essential. The real question is what impact does this new generation of weeds on the next harvest. Can I leave it all like that and take my offspring making sandcastles by the sea, or the risk is too high to see grapes deteriorate share residual moisture created by the biomass of these plants and they constitute obstacles to the flow of air into the vines and light penetration of nourishment, to the point of compromising the potential quantity and quality of the next harvest, already undermined by unpredictable weather?

But conversely, sometimes I like to think, given the heavy rainfall in recent days, it is beneficial to the vine, absorbing excess water in the soil.

These questions are the néovigneron I am as important as that of the existence of God for a seminarian. A little less for my children who have already prepared the snorkels and diving masks.

But as for the existence of God, not easy to find some answers. Read everything and its opposite on the impact of the grass on the vine. To be honest, I've read studies that focused on reviewing the weed "mastered". In my case, a matter mastery, it was better, even if I let the grass voluntarily at first. Nevertheless, I still have grounds for satisfaction. When you do not know where you go, look where you came from, "said the sage. Well, so far, although the situation in the vineyards is a bit confusing, we have realized that a single tillage (with the exception of two parcels in which I rent where we have evidence of a little more zeal mechanics. No way to conduct experiments in vineyards that are not mine, I do not want to be responsible for the death of one of my owners, who suffered a heart attack during a visit of its vineyards). This year, very few vines have been uprooted by my plow. So when I walk into my vineyard, I am surprised at the flexibility of the soil, although they have hardly been shaken. We talked about it with my dog just yesterday evening. It is a pleasure for the pads of its paws. Issue and fuel consumption and emission of greenhouse gas emissions, I can also boast a very positive outcome for this campaign. We talked about it with my oil tank just yesterday evening. So I think it still deserves a week's leave, no.

After, I swore if I go lie in hell, I go back to the vines.

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